Garlic is one of the most rewarding crops a home gardener can grow. A single clove planted in fall transforms into a full bulb of 8 to 20 cloves by the following summer, multiplying your investment many times over. Homegrown garlic is a revelation if you have only ever used the bleached, mild supermarket variety — fresh garlic from the garden delivers bold, complex flavors that elevate every dish it touches.
Despite garlic’s reputation as a staple crop grown by serious gardeners, it is actually one of the easiest vegetables to cultivate. It requires minimal space, tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, has very few pest or disease problems, and needs almost no attention between planting and harvest. A 4-by-8-foot raised bed can produce 60 to 80 bulbs of garlic — enough for a year’s supply for most households.
This guide covers everything you need to know to grow garlic successfully at home, from choosing the right varieties and planting at the correct time to caring for your crop through winter and spring, and harvesting and curing bulbs for months of storage.
Key Takeaways
- Plant garlic in fall (4 to 6 weeks before the ground freezes) for harvest the following summer — garlic needs a cold period to develop proper bulbs
- Hardneck varieties produce larger, more flavorful cloves and delicious scapes but store for 4 to 6 months; softneck stores for 8 to 12 months
- Plant individual cloves pointed end up, 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart, then mulch heavily with 4 to 6 inches of straw
- Garlic needs consistent moisture during spring bulbing but should be kept dry for the final 2 to 3 weeks before harvest
- Proper curing (2 to 4 weeks in a warm, dry, well-ventilated space) is essential for long-term storage — do not skip this step
Understanding Garlic Types
Hardneck Garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon)
Hardneck garlic produces a stiff central stem (the scape) that eventually curls and produces a flower bulb called a bulbil at the top. This scape is a culinary bonus — harvested in late spring when it curls, garlic scapes are a delicacy with a mild garlic flavor perfect for pesto, stir-fries, and grilling. Cutting the scape also redirects the plant’s energy into producing a larger underground bulb.
Hardneck varieties typically produce 4 to 12 large, easy-to-peel cloves per bulb. They offer the most complex, robust garlic flavors and are the preferred choice of chefs and garlic enthusiasts. However, they store for a shorter period — typically 4 to 6 months under ideal conditions — compared to softneck types.
Hardneck garlic thrives in cold climates (USDA zones 1 through 7) where it receives the extended cold period it requires for proper bulb development. Popular hardneck varieties include Rocambole (rich, complex flavor considered the best for cooking), Porcelain (large bulbs with 4 to 6 enormous cloves, strong flavor, stores longer than most hardnecks), and Purple Stripe (beautiful purple-streaked wrappers, medium heat, excellent roasted).
Softneck Garlic (Allium sativum var. sativum)
Softneck garlic does not produce a rigid central stem, giving the neck a flexible structure that makes it braidable — the classic braided garlic you see at farmers markets. Softneck bulbs typically contain 12 to 20 smaller cloves arranged in multiple layers. The cloves are smaller and more numerous than hardneck, with a milder flavor that many find more versatile for everyday cooking.
The major advantage of softneck garlic is storage life. Properly cured softneck garlic stores for 8 to 12 months — potentially lasting from harvest in July all the way to the next year’s harvest. This makes softneck the practical choice for gardeners who want to grow their entire year’s garlic supply.
Softneck garlic performs better in milder climates (zones 5 through 10) and is the type typically found in supermarkets. Popular varieties include Artichoke (dependable, mild, stores extremely well), Silverskin (strongest flavor among softnecks, best storage life), and Inchelium Red (mild, rich flavor, award-winning).
Elephant Garlic
Despite the name, elephant garlic is actually more closely related to leeks than true garlic. It produces enormous bulbs with 4 to 6 very large cloves that have a mild, almost sweet flavor. It is easy to grow but should not be considered a substitute for true garlic in recipes requiring strong garlic presence. Think of it as a separate crop with its own uses.
When to Plant Garlic
Fall Planting (Recommended)
Garlic is overwhelmingly a fall-planted crop. Plant individual cloves 4 to 6 weeks before the ground freezes in your area — this gives the cloves time to establish roots before winter dormancy but not enough time to push green shoots above the soil (though a few inches of green growth before winter is fine and not harmful).
In northern climates (zones 3 to 5), plant in late September to mid-October. In moderate climates (zones 6 to 7), plant in October to early November. In southern climates (zones 8 to 10), plant in late October through December. Softneck varieties are recommended for zones 8 and above as they require less cold exposure for bulbing.
The cold period that garlic experiences through winter is essential. This vernalization triggers the hormonal changes that tell the plant to form a bulb rather than continuing as a single undivided round. Without adequate cold exposure (typically 6 to 8 weeks below 40 degrees Fahrenheit), garlic produces small, undifferentiated rounds rather than the multi-clove bulbs we want.
Spring Planting (Backup Option)
If you miss the fall window, spring planting is possible but produces smaller bulbs because the garlic receives less cold exposure. Plant as early in spring as the soil can be worked — the more cold weeks the cloves experience before warm weather arrives, the better the bulbing. Spring-planted garlic typically produces bulbs 30 to 50 percent smaller than fall-planted garlic of the same variety.
Preparing the Planting Site
Soil Requirements
Garlic performs best in loose, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Heavy clay soil that stays waterlogged causes bulb rot — if your native soil is clay, grow garlic in raised beds filled with a quality raised bed mix. Amend garden soil with 2 to 3 inches of compost worked into the top 8 inches before planting. Target a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0 — slightly acidic to neutral.
Garlic is a moderate feeder that benefits from fertile soil but does not require heavy fertilization. A balanced organic fertilizer or composted manure incorporated at planting provides adequate nutrition through the fall root-development period. Additional nitrogen in early spring (when green growth resumes) promotes strong leaf development that fuels bulb formation.
Site Selection
Choose a location that receives full sun — at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Garlic tolerates partial shade but produces smaller bulbs. Good air circulation around the planting area helps prevent fungal diseases. Avoid locations where onions, garlic, leeks, or shallots grew in the previous two years to minimize soil-borne disease carryover.
Planting Garlic: Step by Step
Step 1: Source Quality Seed Garlic
Purchase seed garlic from reputable garden suppliers, farmers markets, or online seed companies — not from the supermarket. Grocery store garlic is often treated with growth inhibitors to prevent sprouting on shelves, may be varieties poorly suited to your climate, and can carry diseases. Seed garlic is selected for vigor, disease resistance, and regional adaptation.
Each bulb provides 4 to 12 cloves depending on variety, and each clove becomes one new bulb. A single pound of seed garlic (typically 5 to 7 bulbs) plants a 15 to 20-foot row and produces 35 to 50 bulbs at harvest — a remarkable return on investment.
Step 2: Separate Cloves
Break bulbs into individual cloves 1 to 2 days before planting. Do not separate earlier, as exposed cloves dry out. Keep the papery skin on each clove — it protects against disease. Discard any cloves that are soft, moldy, shriveled, or damaged. Plant only the largest, healthiest cloves — these produce the biggest bulbs. Small cloves from the inner portion of the bulb can be planted closer together for green garlic or used in cooking.
Step 3: Plant
Dig individual holes or use a dibble stick to create planting holes 2 inches deep for standard-sized cloves (3 inches for elephant garlic). Space cloves 6 inches apart in rows that are 12 inches apart. This spacing is tighter than many guides recommend but has been proven in numerous trials to produce equivalent bulb size while maximizing yield per square foot. In raised beds, a 6-by-6-inch grid pattern works efficiently. For spacing guidance specific to raised beds, see our raised bed layout guide.
Place each clove in the hole with the pointed end facing up and the flat basal plate (where roots emerge) facing down. This orientation is important — cloves planted upside down will eventually right themselves but waste energy doing so, resulting in smaller, misshapen bulbs. Cover with soil and pat gently.
Step 4: Mulch Heavily
After planting, apply 4 to 6 inches of straw, chopped leaves, or seed-free hay as mulch. This insulating layer serves multiple purposes: it moderates soil temperature fluctuations through winter (protecting cloves from freeze-thaw damage), retains moisture, suppresses spring weeds, and adds organic matter to the soil as it decomposes.
In extremely cold climates (zones 3 to 4), increase mulch depth to 6 to 8 inches. In mild climates (zones 8 to 10), reduce to 2 to 3 inches or use mulch primarily for weed suppression rather than insulation.
Growing Season Care
Fall and Winter
After planting and mulching, garlic requires virtually no attention through fall and winter. The cloves develop roots beneath the mulch while you focus on other garden tasks. In zones 6 and above, you may see green shoots emerge before winter — this is normal and not cause for concern. The shoots may brown back during hard freezes but will regrow vigorously in spring.
Spring Care
When green shoots push through the mulch in early spring, the active growing season begins. Pull back mulch slightly if it is matted and preventing shoots from emerging easily, but leave it in place around the plants for moisture retention and weed suppression.
Fertilize with a nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer (blood meal, fish emulsion, or composted chicken manure) when spring growth resumes and again 3 to 4 weeks later. Nitrogen fuels the leaf growth that directly powers bulb development — each green leaf above ground corresponds to one wrapper layer around the bulb below. More healthy leaves means more layers of protective wrappers and larger bulbs.
Water consistently, providing about 1 inch per week through rainfall and supplemental irrigation. Garlic needs steady moisture during the spring bulbing period (April through June in most climates). Inconsistent watering during this critical phase results in smaller bulbs, split skins, and uneven clove development.
Harvesting Scapes (Hardneck Only)
In late spring to early summer, hardneck garlic sends up a curling green scape from the center of each plant. Harvest scapes when they have completed one full curl but before they straighten out — usually in June. Cut or snap them off where they emerge from the leaf stem. This is not optional for maximum bulb size — leaving scapes diverts significant energy away from bulb development, reducing bulb size by 20 to 30 percent.
Garlic scapes are a genuine culinary treat. Their mild garlic flavor shines in pesto (substitute scapes for basil), stir-fries, grilled alongside vegetables, pickled, or blended into compound butter. They keep in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks.
Pre-Harvest Drying
Stop all watering 2 to 3 weeks before anticipated harvest. Garlic needs dry conditions during its final maturation to develop the papery wrappers that protect bulbs during storage. Continued irrigation at this stage promotes wrapper splitting and reduced storage life. If rain threatens during this period, there is little you can do — but well-drained soil mitigates the impact.
Harvesting Garlic
When to Harvest
Timing the harvest correctly is one of the most critical skills in garlic growing. Harvest too early and bulbs are undersized with excess moisture. Too late and the wrappers deteriorate, cloves begin separating, and storage quality plummets.
Watch the leaves. When the bottom 3 to 4 leaves have turned brown while the top 4 to 5 are still green, it is time to harvest. This typically occurs in mid-June through late July depending on your climate and planting date. In doubt, carefully dig one test bulb — a properly mature bulb has fully formed cloves with tight skins and intact outer wrappers.
How to Harvest
Never pull garlic out by the stem — you will break the stem from the bulb and reduce storage quality. Loosen the soil alongside the row with a garden fork, inserting it 6 inches from the bulb to avoid piercing. Once soil is loosened, gently lift each bulb by hand. Brush off excess soil but do not wash the bulbs — moisture at this stage promotes rot.
Curing and Storage
The Curing Process
Curing is essential for long-term storage — it dries the outer wrappers, seals the neck (preventing moisture and bacteria from entering), and concentrates flavor. Curing transforms freshly harvested garlic from a perishable crop into one that stores for 4 to 12 months.
Immediately after harvest, move bulbs to a warm (75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit), dry, well-ventilated location out of direct sunlight. A covered porch, garage, or garden shed with good airflow works well. Hang bulbs in bundles of 8 to 10 by their stems, or spread them on wire racks or screens with good air circulation underneath. Do not pile bulbs on solid surfaces where air cannot circulate.
Cure for 2 to 4 weeks until the outer wrappers are papery and dry, the neck is tight and completely dried when cut, and the root plate is hard and dry. Once cured, trim stems to 1 inch above the bulb (or leave long for braiding softneck varieties), trim roots to a quarter inch, and brush off remaining loose soil.
Storage Conditions
Store cured garlic in a cool (50 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit), dry, dark location with good air circulation. Mesh bags, open paper bags, and baskets all work well. Avoid sealed plastic containers that trap moisture. Never refrigerate garlic — cold temperatures trigger sprouting. Under ideal conditions, softneck varieties store 8 to 12 months while hardneck stores 4 to 6 months.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant garlic from the grocery store?
You can try, but results are often poor. Supermarket garlic may be treated with sprout inhibitors, may be a variety unsuited to your climate, and provides no disease-resistance guarantees. Invest in certified seed garlic from a reputable supplier for dramatically better results.
How much garlic should I plant for a family?
The average household uses 1 to 2 bulbs per week, or roughly 50 to 100 bulbs per year. This requires planting 50 to 100 cloves, which fits comfortably in a 4-by-8-foot raised bed. Always plant extra — some for cooking fresh, some for next year’s seed garlic, and some as insurance against losses.
Why did my garlic produce rounds instead of cloves?
Undifferentiated rounds (single-clove bulbs without division) result from insufficient cold exposure during winter. This typically happens when garlic is planted too late in fall, during an unusually warm winter, or when spring-planted without adequate pre-chilling. The bulbs are still perfectly edible — they just did not receive the vernalization signal to divide into individual cloves.
Can I grow garlic in containers?
Yes. Use containers at least 8 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Plant 3 to 5 cloves per container of that size. Use well-draining potting mix and ensure adequate cold exposure by leaving containers outdoors through winter (insulate the sides in zones 5 and below to protect from repeated freeze-thaw cycles).
What are the green shoots growing from my stored garlic?
Sprouting indicates the garlic is breaking dormancy and starting a new growth cycle. Sprouted garlic is still safe to eat though the flavor may be slightly bitter. Use sprouted cloves promptly or plant them in the garden. To delay sprouting, store garlic in cooler (but not refrigerated) conditions with good air circulation.
