Bokashi composting is the rebel of the composting world. While traditional composting forbids meat, dairy, and cooked food, bokashi processes everything — every type of kitchen waste including meat scraps, fish bones, cheese rinds, and oily leftovers. It works through anaerobic fermentation rather than aerobic decomposition, uses a sealed bucket that produces no odor, and completes its initial processing in just 2 weeks.
Developed in Japan in the 1980s, bokashi (which means fermented organic matter in Japanese) uses a specific blend of beneficial microorganisms (primarily lactic acid bacteria, yeasts, and phototrophic bacteria) to ferment food waste in an oxygen-free environment. The result is a pre-composted material that, when buried in soil or added to a traditional compost pile, breaks down rapidly into rich soil amendments.
Key Takeaways
- Bokashi processes ALL kitchen waste including meat, dairy, fish, and cooked food — nothing is off-limits except liquids and large bones
- The sealed bucket system produces no unpleasant odors and works indoors — ideal for apartments and winter composting
- The fermentation process takes only 2 weeks, after which the pre-compost is buried in soil where it fully decomposes in 2 to 4 more weeks
- Bokashi produces a nutrient-rich liquid (bokashi tea) that works as a potent liquid fertilizer when diluted 100:1 with water
- A basic two-bucket system costs $30 to $60 and handles all kitchen waste for a household of 2 to 4 people
How Bokashi Works
Fermentation vs. Decomposition
Traditional composting relies on aerobic decomposition — microorganisms that need oxygen break down organic matter. Bokashi uses anaerobic fermentation — similar to the process that produces sauerkraut, kimchi, and yogurt. Lactic acid bacteria and other beneficial microbes ferment the food waste in the sealed, oxygen-free environment of the bucket, producing lactic acid that preserves the material (preventing putrefaction) and pre-digests it for rapid soil breakdown.
The fermented material that comes out of the bokashi bucket does not look like finished compost — it looks largely like the original food scraps but pickled. It has a sweet-sour, fermented smell (like pickles or silage). This is normal and correct. The true composting occurs in the second phase, when this pre-compost is buried in soil and soil microorganisms complete the decomposition rapidly — typically in 2 to 4 weeks.
Setting Up a Bokashi System
The Bucket
A bokashi bucket is any airtight container with a spigot at the bottom for draining liquid. Commercial bokashi bins are purpose-designed with tight-fitting lids and built-in drains. DIY versions use two nested 5-gallon buckets — the inner bucket has holes drilled in the bottom, the outer bucket catches liquid, and a tight-fitting lid seals the system.
A two-bucket system is ideal: while one bucket is actively receiving kitchen waste, the other is sealed and fermenting its completed batch. By the time the first bucket is full, the second bucket’s contents are ready to bury.
Bokashi Bran
Bokashi bran is the inoculant that makes the system work — wheat bran or rice bran infused with the effective microorganisms (EM) that drive the fermentation. You sprinkle bran on each layer of food waste in the bucket. A 2-pound bag lasts most households 1 to 2 months and costs $10 to $15. You can also make your own bokashi bran by purchasing EM concentrate and inoculating bran at home.
The Bokashi Process
Phase 1: Filling the Bucket (1 to 2 weeks)
Add kitchen waste to the bucket in layers. After each addition (daily is typical), sprinkle a generous handful of bokashi bran over the waste. Press the material down firmly with a plate or masher to remove air pockets. Close the lid tightly. Drain the liquid from the spigot every 1 to 2 days.
What goes in: fruit and vegetable scraps, meat, fish, bones (small ones), dairy, eggs and eggshells, bread, pasta, rice, cooked food, tea bags, coffee grounds — essentially all food waste. What stays out: large bones, excessive liquids, and non-food items.
Phase 2: Fermentation (2 weeks)
Once the bucket is full, seal it tightly and set aside for 2 weeks. Do not open during this period — oxygen disrupts the anaerobic fermentation. Continue draining the liquid every few days (it seeps through even during the sealed phase). The fermentation transforms the food waste into a preserved, pre-composted material rich in beneficial microorganisms and organic acids.
Phase 3: Soil Burial (2 to 4 weeks)
After 2 weeks of sealed fermentation, bury the bokashi pre-compost directly in garden soil. Dig a trench or hole 8 to 12 inches deep, empty the bucket contents, and cover with at least 6 to 8 inches of soil. Soil microorganisms complete the decomposition within 2 to 4 weeks, transforming the fermented material into rich, plant-available humus.
Alternatively, add bokashi pre-compost to a traditional compost pile. The pre-fermented material breaks down extremely rapidly in a traditional pile — much faster than raw food waste would. This hybrid approach is particularly useful for gardeners who already maintain a compost pile.
Using Bokashi Products
Bokashi Tea (Leachate)
The liquid drained from the bucket during fermentation is rich in beneficial microorganisms and nutrients. Dilute 1:100 with water (roughly 1 tablespoon per gallon) and use as a liquid fertilizer for garden plants and container gardens. Apply to soil, not foliage. Undiluted bokashi tea poured down drains helps maintain healthy drain bacteria and reduces odors — a useful secondary benefit.
Bokashi Pre-Compost in the Garden
The buried pre-compost enriches the soil in the immediate area where it is buried. Rotate burial locations throughout your garden over the season to spread the benefit. Some gardeners dig trenches between vegetable rows and bury bokashi pre-compost there — the adjacent plant roots grow into the enriched zone as the material decomposes.
Do not plant directly into freshly buried bokashi pre-compost — the acidity of the fermented material can burn roots. Wait 2 to 4 weeks after burial, or bury at least 6 inches below the root zone of existing plants. Once decomposed, the material is perfectly safe and extremely beneficial for plant growth.
Troubleshooting
Blue or green mold on the surface: Indicates unwanted aerobic organisms — the bucket was not sealed tightly enough. Small amounts of white mold are normal and beneficial (these are the correct bokashi organisms). Blue or green mold in significant quantities means the batch is compromised. Add extra bran, press down firmly, and reseal tightly. If the smell is putrid rather than sweet-sour, discard the batch and start fresh.
Foul smell when opening: Properly fermented bokashi should smell sweet-sour, like pickles. A strong rotting smell indicates the fermentation failed — usually from insufficient bran, too much air exposure, or contamination. The material can still be buried (soil organisms will process it) but will not provide the full bokashi benefits.
Not enough liquid draining: Dry food waste produces less leachate. Add slightly more bran and ensure the spigot is open. Not all batches produce significant liquid — this varies with the moisture content of the food waste.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does a bokashi bucket smell?
When sealed, no smell at all. When opened to add waste, you will notice a sweet-sour fermented scent (pleasant, like vinegar or pickles). There is no rotting or decomposition odor because the anaerobic fermentation preserves the material rather than decomposing it. The system works well in kitchens and apartments without any odor concerns.
Can I use bokashi if I do not have a garden to bury the pre-compost?
Yes. Add the fermented material to a traditional compost pile, a community garden compost, or a worm bin (in small amounts — worms love bokashi pre-compost). You can also bury it in large plant pots or planters. Some municipalities accept bokashi pre-compost in green waste bins.
How does bokashi compare to worm composting?
Both work indoors and process kitchen scraps. Bokashi processes ALL food waste (including meat and dairy), requires less daily management, and works faster. Worm composting produces higher-quality finished castings and is a more complete process (castings are ready to use immediately, while bokashi needs a soil burial phase). Many gardeners use both — bokashi for meat and dairy waste, worms for fruit and vegetable scraps.
Is bokashi scientifically proven?
The fermentation process is well-understood science — the same lactic acid fermentation used in food preservation for thousands of years. Research on bokashi as a soil amendment shows improved soil microbial activity, enhanced nutrient availability, and disease suppression benefits. It is widely practiced in Japan, Korea, and increasingly in Western countries.
Can I bokashi pet waste?
Some bokashi practitioners process pet waste in a separate dedicated bucket. The fermentation helps reduce pathogens. However, the pre-compost from pet waste should only be buried in non-edible garden areas (ornamental beds, around trees) and never in vegetable gardens, as some pathogens may survive the process.
